How to Spot Quality Leather Goods
How to Spot Quality Leather Goods
Top tips from the Founder, Designer and Leather Artisan at CARV - the home of quality British made leather goods.
In the quest for more sustainable bags and accessories, quality really matters. It matters to help us tread more lightly on the planet and to feel good about our buying choices. In essence - the better the quality, the more you love it, the longer it will last.
But how do you spot quality in leather goods? How can you find your dream bag, purse or wallet and be sure it will last?
Quality leather goods will stand out, but the devil is in the detail.
Here are my top tips for spotting exceptional quality. The information below should be readily available on any reputable and trustworthy website. If it isn’t, ask. And if the answers don’t come easily - be wary.
Who - Who made it?
Is it a company or an individual? If it’s made by an individual artisan, check their credentials and reviews to see what others are saying. Well trained, highly skilled artisans will be exercising a good deal of care and technique and you know it will be made with love.
How - How is it made?
Check if it has been made using a machine or by hand. Products made by hand using leathercraft skills tend to be more sturdy. But do watch out for the term ‘handmade’ as this is a broad term frequently used to describe items produced on machines in factories (as long as a person is involved in some way). Handmade doesn’t necessarily mean quality and requires further investigation.
What - What is it made from?
There are various different types of leather, some of which are better quality, more environmentally friendly and more durable than others. Genuine vegetable tanned leather is strong, long lasting and looks and feels beautiful, whereas chrome tanned or coated leather can be like plasticky and brittle.
Watch out for leather alternatives as these can be misleading - there is no such thing as ‘vegan leather’ so make sure you find out what material is being used as an alternative and how robust it is. Genuine vegetable tanned leather has a distinct, rich smell. If the bag smells like chemicals or plastic, it is most likely either synthetic or chemical (chrome) tanned leather.
Stitching - Check the stitching for evenness and tightness.
You can usually spot if an item has been hand stitching as the angle of the stitching lines have a slight tilt. With good quality hand stitching every stitch is carefully executed and the use of thicker threads (typically waxed cotton linen) makes the stitching more robust than a machine stitch.
Hardware - Examine the zips, buckles and other hardware.
High quality bags and other leather goods use durable materials such as brass or stainless steel, and the hardware should be solid and operate smoothly. Product descriptions should specify the hardware materials used.
Edges - Look at the finish of the edges.
How have they been finished? High quality leather goods are either sealed or burnished to prevent fraying and give a polished look. Traditional leatherwork burnishes (polishes) the edges using natural cream and friction.
Price - Be wary of lower prices.
As a rule of thumb, buying the best you can afford (or saving up for a special occasion) will secure you a better quality leather product. Entirely hand crafted pieces will take significantly longer to make so do bear in mind the maker’s time when you’re assessing the price point of a product.
Delve into the detail.
The smell, weight and feel of an item can give you a good sense of quality. If in doubt ask for material samples and try to test run products in person so you can check the quality of the material, stitching etc in reality.